Sunday, July 26, 2009

God is good

I’m working on a feature on egg donation and infertility in Uganda. Last week I took a boda across town and got to meet with a Ugandan doctor who loves Jesus and loves his people and began Women’s Hospital International in Kampala to give back to and serve his countrymen – er, countrywomen.

Just like in Kenya, so much of a woman’s life and status is wrapped up in her ability to bear children. “If a woman doesn’t have children of her own, the she’s (…) regarded as not a woman, in a sense,” Dr. Tamali-Sali said to me. “She can’t propagate the next generation, therefore she’s useless,” he said in reference to the cultural attitude toward infertility in Uganda.

I also worked a good chunk of the week extracting the names of people awaiting prosecution from a 253 government white paper. Not my favorite job ever.

I have been shifting away from news and towards writing more feature/enterprise articles. It’s really interesting but a LOT more time and work!

Over the weekend, Zoe and I went to a rugby game at the Kampala Rugby Club. Pirates vs. Cubs. The Pirates had two incredible tries scored off of breakaway runs and ended up winning the game. The guy standing next me had 20,000 shillings bet on the Cobs.

We also met up with Agnes, a Ugandan girl who also attends Stanford, at the rugby game and hung out with her and her friends afterwards. I enjoyed it a lot.

Patrick’s little daughter Melanie has a heart defect. She has been in Mulago Hospital for the past 2 weeks. Patrick’s family is making preparations for her and Sarah (her mom) to fly to the US for an operation next week. Penny has been helping their family and staying in the hospital so it has just been Zoe and I at home. Melanie is just three months old. Please pray for her and her family in this time and that the operation in the US will be successful.

I can’t believe it’s almost August. I love being in Uganda and I’m enjoying the experience at the Monitor a lot, but there have also been times that are hard and really lonely. I am learning a lot of trust and reliance on God through everything and can truly see Him at work in my life.

This post is all over the place. But the bottom line in my life right now is simply this:

God is good.

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Can't begin to catch up on everything, but I'll try to do better from this point forward. :)

It was wonderful to see my family and Jason and we had a great time together rafting the Nile and...BUNGEE JUMPING over the Nile just this morning.

Now I'm back in Kampala and back to work tomorrow.

More soon. :)

Saturday, July 4, 2009

All in a day's (week's) work

It has been a CRAZY week! With 36 hours of work in the last 3 days alone, 7 articles published, and my first front page story! (Can you tell my week has been dominated by work?)

It’s also been a good week! I am learning so much about journalism and Kampala and getting to see so many different places and meet so many people (albeit as a pen-in-hand, probing reporter rather than a sight-seeing tourist).

My “beats” for the week have been healthcare, justice, and poetry.

First, healthcare:

On Monday Kenya had its first case of the H1N1 virus (“swine flu”) and on Tuesday I was assigned to follow-up the story with more details and the relevance of the case for Uganda. Wednesday, I did another follow-up on the situation and Thursday, Uganda had its first case. Because I was already covering “swine flu” I went to the press conference, called all my sources, and wrote the story on my own. And the story ran on the front page on Friday! (I feel kind of bad being so excited about swine flu…)

http://www.monitor.co.ug/artman/publish/news/Swine_flu_confirmed_in_Uganda_87423.shtml

Yesterday, I worked on some more follow-up on the H1N1 virus and went to Mulago Hospital to see whether they really were “ready” as the Ministry of Health claimed. The first photographer who was supposed to go with me passed the job off to another guy (I think he was afraid of getting swine flu…even though the man who has it is in Entebbe Hospital) :) and together we headed across town to the Hospital to see what we could find. The Publicity Officer did not want to show me the “isolation unit,” admitting that it wasn’t in the best shape. Finally he gave in and showed me. Turns out the “isolation unit” is 8 make-shift tents without beds, mattresses, or nurses present in an area with overgrown grass and a broken down fence (but I was assured that it would be ready by Monday…hmm).

On Wednesday I also went to another press conference for a new “Texting4Health” initiative aimed at increasing health awareness among Ugandan cell phone users.

And the justice and poetry?

The Principle Judge of Uganda, Hon James Ogoola, just published a book of poetry (Songs of Paradise: A Harvest of Poetry and Verse).

Justice Ogoola is a prominent judicial figure in Uganda and known for his stance against human rights violations and injustice. (One of his poems (about the horrors of torture) was read last week at the UN Day for Torture Victims that I covered).

On Wednesday, I went with Charles to the High Court to interview Justice Ogoola about the book and about some of his politics (can I also just say that transcribing 12 pages of a taped interview from a scratchy tape that rewinds to a place that actually comes later in the interview is not such a fun job! Oh how I wish I had brought my own digital recorder to that interview!)

Justice Ogoola is also a Christian and his poetry is centered on a message of faith. It was really interesting getting to meet him in person and talk with him, and really cool too to see someone like him giving time and pleasure to poetry as well as to the many issues affecting the judiciary in Uganda right now. I was very inspired!

On Friday, I went to the book launch of his book at the Serena Kampala Hotel. It was a really formal, fancy event and truly a celebration of art as a whole I enjoyed covering something “creative” rather than just “hard news.”

I also did a book review of the book (it came out today in the M2 insert - http://www.monitor.co.ug/artman/publish/coffee-break/A_judge_s_poetry_87483.shtml)

It has indeed been a full, busy, and rewarding week!

I’m learning to “cultivate” my sources, and am now on a first-name basis with the Country Representative for WHO and another representative from the Uganda Ministry of Health. It’s also been great getting to know the other reporters, writers, and editors at the office and gradually gaining their trust. Sometimes it it’s intimidating to be told, “cover this” and have no idea where to start with calling people or finding background information, but it’s also an exciting challenge.

I’m learning my way around town (largely on bodas) and gaining so many vantage points into this culture and country.

On Friday, after a crazy boda boda ride across town, I walked off of the dust and clamor of the street and into an auditorium at the Serena Hotel where quiet music was playing, distinguished guests were gathering, and yes, the air conditioning was running. Two hours later, I walked back outside into the heat and diesel fumes and caught another boda back to the office where I piled into a car with five men (we were later pulled over by the police, and one of the men had to get out…) and was dropped off at the Hospital to see their “swine flu” isolation unit.

All in a day’s work.

It’s also interesting watching the news at night and seeing a press conference or event that I covered. Maybe one of these days I’ll be on TV. :)

It has been so nice to have some down time this morning to drink tea, eat mango, and catch up on emails. Our neighbor came over for tea and it was good to get to know her a little better.

Penny is gone for the day and this afternoon, Zoe and I are going to explore more of the city (without notebooks and pens!) and then meet up with some people from the Monitor for a movie in the evening.

Friday, June 26, 2009

Addicted to Journalism

The walk through Kabalagala to the taxi stop is defined by smell. Diesel fumes infused with dust mix with the smoky aroma of chickens roasting whole beside the road.

Street venders cook the chicken, kabobs of beef or lamb, and chapattis in the gathering dusk. School boys trod home, their navy blue uniforms distinguishing them from the rest of the throng; an escari walks purposefully down the road, gun slung over his shoulder; “ma-dam, ma-dam,” boda boda drivers call as we pass, sitting atop their motorcycles and hoping we want a lift.

Today marks exactly one week since I arrived in Uganda and already I have established a weekday routine.

Each day begins at 5:50 with a quick bowl of cornflakes and a frantic dash down the rocky hill to catch a ride with Michael (our neighbor who works for MTN not too far away from Monitor Publications).

At work, I read my Bible and do some writing before everyone arrives. Zoe and I read the day’s paper as the staff comes in and then we all gather together for the morning news meeting at 8:30.

Each day is different, but always interesting. If I’m at the office during lunchtime, I eat a traditional Ugandan lunch in the canteen downstairs, and if I’m not, I either don’t eat or I grab something in town. We usually finish work between 5 and 5:30 and arrive home sometime after 6.

After dinner (sometimes we cook together, other times we each make something small for ourselves), Penny turns on a Mexican soap opera (she’s addicted!). Nights are short because I go to bed so early!

On Wednesday, I went to Parliament and sat in on a meeting for the committee of Presidential Affairs. The next day, Gerald and I’s story (“MPs feather Hajj Kigongo’s retirement nest, approve perks”) made the second page!

http://www.monitor.co.ug/artman/publish/news/MPs_feather_Hajj_Kigongo_s_retirement_nest_approve_perks_87023.shtml

On Thursday, I went to a features meeting for the weekly insert section, “Full Woman.” Filled with fashion tips, dating and parenting advice, and features on women’s issues, “Full Woman,” appears in every Saturday’s paper.

I narrowly missed being assigned a story on “parenting tips,” and walked away instead with assignments to write a feature on infertility in Uganda, do a vox pox section interviewing women at Makerere University about their feelings on the 1.5 point system (affirmative action) for women going into higher education, and write a personal piece on – wait for it – long distance relationships. :)

I spent the rest of the day in the office, calling clinics in Kampala (and reaching no one), working on the personal piece, and getting approval for a Monitor email address from HR.

Friday (besides being the day Michael Jackson died – due to be the front page story of the Monitor tomorrow!) was the United Nations International day in support of torture victims. Activists marched from Kololo airstrip to the Railway Grounds and where they had an assortment of speakers and events commemorating the day. I covered it with Faridah Kulabako, another reporter at the Monitor. Hopefully the story will make the Sunday paper.

I have never been so in tune with the news. Each morning, I greedily read the paper (the online version can be found at http://www.monitor.co.ug/), absorbing the issues and a little more of the culture – and searching eagerly for my name. One of the other reporters says that journalism is addictive and it truly is. I get an adrenaline rush from seeing my name in print and when I do, I just want to see it again and again. :)

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Check out my first news article (shared byline with Isaac) at:

http://www.monitor.co.ug/artman/publish/news/Minister_wants_public_servants_to_report_to_work_at_7am_86965.shtml

It's about three paragraphs shorter than what we originally wrote and the editors changed some of the wording (including a little of what's in direct quotes!?), but I guess that's my first lesson in relinquishing control and working with editors. :)

Working Days

I feel like I’ve lived a week in the last two days.

It took us an hour and fifteen minutes to get to work on our first day. Turns out there’s a lot of traffic going into Kampala at 7:30AM and even though our taxi (matatu, packed van) driver tried valiantly to pass as many cars as possible on the side of the road before cutting back into the slow-moving traffic (and then repeating the process), it still took us 30 minutes to drive what should have taken 5.

At Monitor Publications, we met Charles (the political editor who has been our contact in setting up this internship) who introduced us around and then left us with a senior reporter while he finished up some work. The reporter gave us copies of the day’s paper and then took us upstairs to meet the feature editors and writers. Flora (the editor of the weekly section “Full Woman”) sent us into the library to read old copies of the paper and get a feel for the different sections. I read through December 2007 and it was interesting to read about Kenya’s last elections from a Ugandan perspective.

Later, we met with Carol, the Features Editor, and talked more about the daily inserts and the features sections. Charles introduced to some more people and then announced that today he was too busy to take us to HR so we could leave for the day.

It was 12:40 so Zoe and I grabbed lunch at a small Ethiopian restaurant ($2 each for a meal and soda) on our long walk back to Kabalagaba and then caught a taxi to the Super Supermarket (the only landmark we know near to our road).

Today we caught a ride with a neighbor who works in town. He leaves at 6:30AM and since we didn’t have to walk or sit in traffic, we were at work at 6:49. We don’t need to be there until the daily news meeting at 8:30, so we had some time to kill. Looks like we can either spend an hour and fifteen minutes walking/taking a taxi/walking some more each morning or catch a ride with Michael and get to work super early but then have some personal reading/writing time before work…for now, we’re going to go with the early trip.

Everyone comes into work and reads the day’s paper first thing. At 8:30 all of the reporters, editors, and photographers piled into the newsroom to discuss the day’s stories and compare them to the competing paper (New Vision). Charles led the meeting and had a smart perspective on every issue; I’m so impressed by him! After we went through the paper, everyone had to report on what they were covering today. Charles assigned me to go with Isaac Imaka to cover the Africa Day of Civil Service and Public Administration.

The meeting/“workshop” was at the Hotel Africana and there were probably 200 Public Service officials (basically all sectors of the government) present. We were there from about 9:30 until 2 and then interviewed people afterwards to get their reactions to the proposals suggested. The keynote speaker was Dr. Aaron Mukwaya, a professor of Political Science at Makerere University. He talked about the importance of Ugandans returning to their traditional values and emphasized that Public Service is a state duty. Ugandans have a problem “mixing what is government and what is state,” he said. At the end , he said “I am not an Africanist. I’m an African who is writing on Africa.” I was inspired by him even though his speech didn’t end up being our primary focus in the article.

We took boda bodas back to the Monitor (my first boda boda ride of the summer) :) and pitched our angle to an editor. I had pages of notes on Mokwaya’s speech and the whole event, but the editor decided we should have 450 words and that was that.

It was fun to work with Isaac and interesting combining our ideas and writing styles and trying to do it as quickly as possible in order to meet our 5PM deadline. The writing style itself is very different here and some of the sentence structures and words in our article are counterintuitive to what I would have written if I was working alone.

We wrote the article in time and sent it in. I’m used to proofing and re-proofing but we didn’t even fully read it over before we sent it in. And that was that again. :)

Zoe and I bought bread and tomatoes on the way home. It’s been a challenge learning how to gauge grocery levels and know what quantities of everything we should buy at once.

We didn’t get home until after 6. Besides a bowl of cereal at 6AM, I hadn’t eaten anything beyond a piece of sweet bread and a cup of tea at the Hotel Africana. I was definitely hungry!

It was a long day but a good day. I feel like I saw and experienced so much since 5:30 this morning when Zoe’s alarm went off. I also feel more accepted and assimilated into the Monitor and am excited to get to know more of the people who work there.

And tomorrow I’ll have my first article in print!

Off to bed now. Getting up in the 5’s…

PS - Check out Zoe’s blog at zarichards.blogspot.com

Sunday, June 21, 2009

My first weekend

The rain is falling on the metal roof and my favorite smell (rain on the hot dirt) fills the air. Across several miles of banana leaves and small communities, I can see Lake Victoria from the porch of my apartment – MY apartment! :) My first apartment is in Uganda.

Zoe and I arrived in Entebbe on Friday night and were met at the airport by Patrick and Penny. We drove the hour back to Kampala and Patrick dropped us all off at our apartment.

Zoe is also a sophomore (now junior) at Stanford and received the same fellowship that I did. She is originally from New York and is studying International Relations at Stanford. We met during the application process for our fellowship and decided to live together in Kampala.

Patrick runs a business here called Bridge Africa International which helps short-term mission groups with housing, transport, and logistics. I got in touch with him last February through the friend of a friend and now we’re renting our apartment from him.

Penny is Patrick’s niece. She’s 19 and is hoping to start at University in Kampala in August. She is sharing our apartment and Patrick calls her our “Ugandan guide.” She’s definitely been exactly that to us the last two days and been a huge help as we get settled.

Yesterday morning, Patrick came and helped us set up our computers up for the dial up internet we’ll be using while we’re here. Then he, Penny, Zoe, and I went into town (actually, the outskirts of town, we haven’t gone downtown yet).

First we went to the bank (where the man helping me with the ATM kept rushing me to push the buttons, and then when I finally made my selections and got my debit card back, he informed me that “if you take too long, the machine will chew it up.” “Oh,” I said). We then went to an MTN store and bought phones and then continued on to the market and the Super Supermarket (yes, that’s its name) for fresh food and groceries.

In many ways, Uganda is a lot like Kenya, and it’s weird feeling like I’m in Kenya, but then having it not be Kenya. I keep wanting to speak in Swahili but no one would understand me. I have also never been so aware of (and frustrated by) my “whiteness” and the automatic impressions and stereotypes that go with it. I was the only muzungu on the street most of the places we went, and even though I don’t speak Lugandan, I could hear everyone talking about me.

It’s funny too because everyone thinks that Zoe’s from Africa (until she talks) and that I’m from the US, and they are surprised to find out that it’s the other way around.

“You were born in Kenya?” they ask. “Yes,” I say. “Your family is in Kenya now?” they ask. “Yes,” I say. “Ahh, you are truly Kenyan then,” they say. I think I have had this same exchange with the same several people several times over.

At the market, we bought 1 pineapple, 5 carrots, 6 onions, 3 garlic heads, 3 green peppers, 8 tomatoes, 3 cucumbers, 2 avocados, 1 cabbage head, 2 stalks (stalks?) of sukumawiki, eleven potatoes, 5 passion fruits, 6 oranges, a small stalk of bananas, and a cup of beans for 13,000 shillings…which is about $6.50. I’m so excited for all of the fresh fruit and vegetables I’ll be eating this summer!

In the afternoon, we unpacked and settled into our apartment. The apartment is pretty bare, but all the basics in furniture and dishes are here, so it’s perfect. Downstairs there is a small kitchen and dining room/living room area and upstairs there are two bedrooms and a bathroom. Zoe and I are sharing a room and Penny has her own. There is also a little porch off our room where it is much cooler to sit than inside. The compound we are living in has a high gate all around it and a guard. There are also some (fierce) dogs with the guard at night, so we feel very safe. The compound is located at the top of a little hill and we have a beautiful view of the lake and countryside.

After we cooked and ate dinner last night, Zoe and I both did some writing and Penny watched TV. Penny says she always has to watch a soap opera before she sleeps. Turns out it’s a Mexican soap opera dubbed over in English. I think it might be one of the most hilarious things I’ve ever seen.

I stayed up “late” (until 12) :) sending emails because we seem to only be able to get on the internet in the early morning and late at night; most of the other times in the day there is no connection (and even when we do get on, the internet is really slow!)

Patrick offered to take us to his church and so this morning we walked to Patrick’s house (about 5 minutes away) and loaded in his van to for the 10 minute drive to Ggaba Community Church. The service was in both Lugandan and English and it was encouraging to worship together with so many Ugandan Christians. After the two hour service, we piled back in the van and drove back to Patrick’s house.

Patrick invited us for lunch and we had sweet potatoes, matoke, peas, chicken, sukumawiki, and fresh pineapple – all cooked in the traditional Ugandan way. It was delicious.

Patrick has a beautiful family. His wife’s name is Sarah and they have three small kids – Mark, Martha and Melanie. They are all so kind and generous and have shown us so much hospitality already. The kids have a lot of energy and it was fun to play with them and get to know them a little bit. Mark (who is 7) and I are going to have a football date sometime soon; he tells me he is “very good at football, especially scoring.” :)

Tomorrow is our first day of work at the Monitor. Patrick showed us where it is located when we were out yesterday. To get there, we’ll have to walk about 20 minutes down to one of the main roads and then catch a “taxi” (the same thing as a matatu in Kenya…basically a small, packed bus) until we get to Kabalagaba (which is a typical street with boutiques and cafes during the day and…the red light district at night) and then walk or take a boda boda another 30 minutes to the Monitor.

I’m nervous and excited to meet Charles tomorrow and find out more of what I’ll be doing this summer. I’m sure it will be an adventure!